| 
																		 
																		
																		
																		COPTIC 
																		EGYPT 
																		 
																		 Most 
																		people 
																		associate 
																		Egypt 
																		with 
																		Islam 
																		today, 
																		but 
																		Christianity 
																		was 
																		actually 
																		the 
																		dominant 
																		religion 
																		between 
																		the 
																		fourth 
																		century 
																		AD and 
																		641 AD, 
																		when 
																		Islam 
																		officially 
																		took 
																		over. 
																		St. Mark 
																		first 
																		preached 
																		Christianity 
																		in 50 
																		AD, and 
																		Egypt 
																		was one 
																		of the 
																		first 
																		countries 
																		to adopt 
																		the 
																		still 
																		young 
																		faith. 
																		 
																		The 
																		Egyptian 
																		branch 
																		of 
																		Christianity 
																		is 
																		called 
																		the 
																		Coptic 
																		Church. 
																		Unlike 
																		other 
																		branches 
																		of 
																		Christianity, 
																		the 
																		Coptics 
																		believe 
																		that 
																		Christ 
																		was a 
																		wholly 
																		divine 
																		being 
																		and not 
																		God made 
																		flesh. 
																		One in 
																		every 
																		ten 
																		Egyptians 
																		is a 
																		Coptic 
																		today. 
																		The 
																		Coptic 
																		Church 
																		has its 
																		own 
																		Pope, 
																		and many 
																		ceremonies 
																		are 
																		still 
																		held in 
																		the 
																		ancient 
																		Coptic 
																		language. 
																		 
																		The 
																		Holy 
																		Family's 
																		Journey 
																		If you 
																		know the 
																		bible 
																		well, 
																		you'll 
																		remember 
																		that 
																		Jesus 
																		and the 
																		Holy 
																		family 
																		fled 
																		from 
																		Bethlehem 
																		to 
																		Egypt, 
																		seeking 
																		refuge 
																		from a 
																		bloodthirsty 
																		King 
																		Herod. 
																		They 
																		made an 
																		arduous 
																		2,000km 
																		trek by 
																		donkey 
																		over 
																		four 
																		years 
																		which 
																		took 
																		them 
																		over 30 
																		different 
																		places 
																		in 
																		Egypt, 
																		from Al-Farma 
																		down to 
																		the Al-Muharraq 
																		monastery. 
																		 
																		Needless 
																		to say, 
																		the Holy 
																		Family's 
																		Journey 
																		is an 
																		extremely 
																		important 
																		event in 
																		the 
																		Coptic 
																		tradition, 
																		and they 
																		celebrate 
																		Jesus' 
																		arrival 
																		in Egypt 
																		every 
																		year on 
																		June 1st 
																		(the 
																		24th day 
																		of the 
																		Coptic 
																		month 
																		Bashans).
																		 
																		 
																		
																		Coptic 
																		Monuments 
																		Alexandria 
																		was once 
																		one of 
																		the 
																		major 
																		seats of 
																		the 
																		Roman 
																		Empire 
																		and many 
																		beautiful 
																		Coptic 
																		monuments 
																		record 
																		the 
																		great 
																		triumphs 
																		of those 
																		years of 
																		glory. 
																		 
																		
																		Virgin's 
																		Tree 
																		Many 
																		places 
																		are 
																		named in 
																		honour 
																		of the 
																		Virgin 
																		Mary, 
																		but the 
																		Virgin's 
																		tree is 
																		one of 
																		very few 
																		to have 
																		been 
																		visited 
																		by Mary 
																		herself 
																		with 
																		young 
																		Jesus by 
																		her 
																		side. 
																		They're 
																		thought 
																		to have 
																		taken 
																		shelter 
																		beneath 
																		the 
																		tree's 
																		bowed 
																		branches, 
																		refreshing 
																		themselves 
																		from the 
																		same 
																		spring 
																		that 
																		waters 
																		its old 
																		roots. 
																		 
																		
																		 Al-Muallaqa 
																		(Hanging) 
																		Church 
																		Dating 
																		the al-Muallaqa 
																		church 
																		definitively 
																		has 
																		proven 
																		difficult 
																		due to 
																		its 
																		various 
																		makeovers 
																		throughout 
																		the 
																		years, 
																		but it 
																		was 
																		completed 
																		sometime 
																		between 
																		the 
																		seventh 
																		and 
																		ninth 
																		century 
																		on top 
																		of what 
																		was the 
																		Water 
																		Gate on 
																		the 
																		southern 
																		wall of 
																		the 
																		fortress 
																		of 
																		Babylon. 
																		In fact, 
																		the gate 
																		is still 
																		visible 
																		through 
																		a hole 
																		in the 
																		baptistery's 
																		floor.
																		 
																		The 
																		church's 
																		two bell 
																		towers 
																		soar to 
																		an 
																		awe-inspiring 
																		13m at 
																		their 
																		highest 
																		peak. 
																		Beneath 
																		its 
																		hallowed 
																		vaulted 
																		ceilings, 
																		the 
																		major 
																		events 
																		of the 
																		Coptic 
																		calendar 
																		are 
																		celebrated 
																		to a 
																		spectacular 
																		effect. 
																		During 
																		the 
																		Enthronement 
																		of the 
																		Patriarch, 
																		its 
																		impressive 
																		collection 
																		of 
																		censers, 
																		chalices 
																		and 
																		crosses 
																		in gold, 
																		silver 
																		and gilt 
																		go on 
																		full 
																		display. 
																		 
																		
																		 Saint 
																		Catherine's 
																		Monastery 
																		It was 
																		at the 
																		top of 
																		Mt Sinai 
																		that 
																		Moses 
																		received 
																		the ten 
																		commandments 
																		from 
																		God. At 
																		its 
																		base, 
																		besides 
																		what is 
																		rumoured 
																		to be 
																		the 
																		burning 
																		bush of 
																		biblical 
																		fame, is 
																		the 
																		Greek 
																		Orthodox 
																		Monastery 
																		of Saint 
																		Catherine.
																		 
																		The 
																		monastery 
																		was 
																		named 
																		after an 
																		early 
																		Christian 
																		martyr 
																		from 
																		Alexandria 
																		and the 
																		Emperor 
																		Justinian 
																		had a 
																		basilica 
																		built to 
																		house 
																		her 
																		recovered 
																		remains 
																		many 
																		centuries 
																		later. 
																		Today, 
																		the 
																		church 
																		is lined 
																		with 
																		spectacularly 
																		ornate 
																		icons 
																		and 
																		scriptural 
																		paintings. 
																		Its 
																		monastery 
																		museum 
																		is home 
																		to the 
																		world's 
																		second 
																		largest 
																		collection 
																		of 
																		illuminated 
																		manuscripts 
																		in 
																		Greek, 
																		Arabic, 
																		Hebrew, 
																		Coptic 
																		and 
																		Georgian. 
																		 
																		
																		 Church 
																		of Mar 
																		Guirguis 
																		(St 
																		George) 
																		Not to 
																		be 
																		confused 
																		with 
																		England's 
																		dragon-slaying 
																		hero, 
																		Mar 
																		Guirguis 
																		was an 
																		early 
																		martyr 
																		from 
																		Palestine, 
																		put to 
																		death by 
																		the 
																		Romans 
																		in the 
																		fourth 
																		century. 
																		The 
																		first 
																		church 
																		to bear 
																		his name 
																		was 
																		built 
																		some six 
																		centuries 
																		later. 
																		The 
																		elegant 
																		circular 
																		domed 
																		church 
																		you see 
																		today 
																		stands 
																		on its 
																		fire-ravaged 
																		remains, 
																		built at 
																		the turn 
																		of the 
																		twentieth 
																		century. 
																		Inside, 
																		the 
																		church 
																		is 
																		bathed 
																		in the 
																		magnificent 
																		multicoloured 
																		glow of 
																		its 
																		striking 
																		stained 
																		glass 
																		windows. 
																		 
																		 The 
																		Coptic 
																		Museum 
																		(Old 
																		Cairo) 
																		Just 
																		approaching 
																		it's 
																		first 
																		century, 
																		the 
																		Coptic 
																		Museum 
																		in Cairo 
																		is a 
																		treasure 
																		trove of 
																		relics 
																		from 
																		Egypt's 
																		early 
																		Christians, 
																		where 
																		you can 
																		find : 
																		scraps 
																		of 
																		painted 
																		textiles, 
																		manuscripts 
																		and 
																		icons, 
																		frescoes 
																		and 
																		carvings 
																		in wood, 
																		ivory, 
																		glass 
																		and 
																		stone.
																		 
																		Behind 
																		its 
																		understated 
																		scallop-shell 
																		archways, 
																		the 13 
																		halls of 
																		the old 
																		wing are 
																		currently 
																		undergoing 
																		a 
																		massive 
																		face-lift. 
																		However, 
																		the 17 
																		halls of 
																		the new 
																		wing 
																		house 
																		the bulk 
																		of the 
																		exhibits 
																		and an 
																		enclosed 
																		garden. 
																		 
																		
																		Church 
																		of Abu 
																		Serga 
																		(St 
																		Sergius) 
																		Built on 
																		the site 
																		where 
																		the Holy 
																		Family 
																		is said 
																		to have 
																		taken 
																		refuge 
																		on the 
																		flight 
																		into 
																		Egypt.  | 
																		  | 
																		
																		
																		
																		ISLAMIC 
																		EGYPT 
																		 
																		In 642 
																		AD, the 
																		Byzantine 
																		Empire 
																		(the 
																		empire 
																		that 
																		introduced 
																		Christianity 
																		to 
																		Europe) 
																		was 
																		conquered 
																		by an 
																		army of 
																		Arabs 
																		and 
																		Egypt 
																		became 
																		part of 
																		an 
																		expanding 
																		Islamic 
																		Empire. 
																		Islam 
																		became 
																		the 
																		dominant 
																		religion 
																		and it's 
																		stayed 
																		that way 
																		ever 
																		since. 
																		Today, 
																		nine out 
																		of ten 
																		Egyptians 
																		are 
																		Muslim. 
																		 
																		A new 
																		capital 
																		was 
																		established 
																		at 
																		Fustat, 
																		the 
																		first 
																		Islamic 
																		city of 
																		Egypt 
																		(modern 
																		day 
																		Cairo). 
																		When the 
																		Fatimids 
																		invaded 
																		in 969 
																		AD, they 
																		built a 
																		new seat 
																		of power 
																		and 
																		Fustat 
																		became 
																		al-Qahirah 
																		(the 
																		official 
																		name of 
																		the city 
																		of 
																		Cairo). 
																		Only 
																		traces 
																		of their 
																		legacy 
																		survive 
																		to this 
																		day. It 
																		was the 
																		legendary 
																		Saladin 
																		who 
																		finally 
																		vanquished 
																		the 
																		Fatimids 
																		in the 
																		twelfth 
																		century 
																		and he 
																		built 
																		the 
																		magnificent 
																		Citadel 
																		as we 
																		know it 
																		today. 
																		 
																		Regarding 
																		the 
																		Fatimids, 
																		the 
																		Mamluks 
																		and the 
																		Ottomans, 
																		each 
																		dynasty 
																		left its 
																		own 
																		unique 
																		mark 
																		through 
																		elegant 
																		domed 
																		mosques, 
																		"Madrassas" 
																		and 
																		mausoleums, 
																		with 
																		slender, 
																		soaring 
																		minarets. 
																		Well 
																		over a 
																		millennium 
																		of 
																		uninterrupted 
																		Islamism, 
																		Egypt 
																		has a 
																		wealth 
																		of 
																		architectural, 
																		historical 
																		and 
																		religious 
																		mosques 
																		and 
																		these 
																		are just 
																		a few of 
																		the 
																		'must-see' 
																		across 
																		the 
																		country. 
																		 
																		
																		 The 
																		Citadel 
																		(Cairo) 
																		The seat 
																		of 
																		Egypt's 
																		power 
																		and the 
																		lifeblood 
																		of Cairo 
																		for 
																		seven 
																		centuries, 
																		the 
																		Citadel 
																		was 
																		Saladin's 
																		creation 
																		of an 
																		imperial 
																		Islamic 
																		complex 
																		with 
																		unrivalled 
																		views 
																		over the 
																		medieval 
																		city.
																		 
																		Partly a 
																		palace, 
																		partly 
																		an 
																		inaccessible 
																		fortress, 
																		the 
																		Citadel 
																		is split 
																		into 
																		three 
																		different 
																		sections 
																		inside 
																		its 
																		tremendous 
																		walls. 
																		Though 
																		entirely 
																		Islamic, 
																		its 
																		myriad 
																		mosques 
																		and 
																		palaces 
																		were 
																		shaped 
																		by 
																		different 
																		kingdoms.
																		 
																		The 
																		Ottomans 
																		rebuilt 
																		the 
																		Citadel 
																		in their 
																		own 
																		image. 
																		Mohammed 
																		Ali's 
																		nineteenth 
																		century 
																		typically 
																		Turkish 
																		Mosque 
																		dominates 
																		the 
																		entire 
																		city. 
																		Its 
																		bubble-like 
																		domes 
																		loom 
																		over the 
																		modern 
																		city 
																		skyline. 
																		The 
																		Mosque 
																		of an-Nasr 
																		Mohammed, 
																		with its 
																		towering 
																		spiral 
																		minarets, 
																		is the 
																		only of 
																		Mamluk's 
																		fine 
																		buildings 
																		to 
																		survive 
																		the 
																		Ottoman's 
																		demolition 
																		derby.
																		 
																		Today, 
																		the 
																		Citadel's 
																		grand 
																		palaces 
																		have 
																		been 
																		given a 
																		new 
																		lease of 
																		life to 
																		their 
																		medieval 
																		masters 
																		as 
																		modern 
																		museums.
																		 
																		 
																		
																		 Mosque 
																		of Amr 
																		Ibn 
																		al-As 
																		It was 
																		Amr Ibn 
																		al-As 
																		who 
																		brought 
																		Islam to 
																		Egypt, 
																		and his 
																		namesake 
																		was 
																		Egypt's 
																		first 
																		ever 
																		mosque. 
																		In fact, 
																		it's the 
																		oldest 
																		mosque 
																		in 
																		Africa, 
																		as well 
																		as one 
																		of the 
																		most 
																		unconventional.
																		 
																		The 
																		original 
																		mosque 
																		was 
																		rather 
																		rudimentary, 
																		rumoured 
																		to be 
																		built of 
																		mud 
																		bricks, 
																		palm 
																		trunks 
																		and 
																		leaves. 
																		What you 
																		see 
																		today is 
																		the 
																		result 
																		of 
																		endless 
																		re-invention. 
																		Most 
																		striking 
																		is the 
																		conspicuous 
																		absence 
																		of the 
																		usual 
																		minaret 
																		or domed 
																		roof. 
																		With its 
																		rectangular 
																		figure, 
																		clean 
																		lines 
																		and 
																		eclectic 
																		clash of 
																		styles, 
																		it looks 
																		as 
																		different 
																		to the 
																		average 
																		mosque 
																		today as 
																		it must 
																		have 
																		then.
																		 
																		 
																		
																		 Al-Azhar 
																		Mosque 
																		It was 
																		the 
																		Fatimids 
																		of 
																		Tunisia 
																		who 
																		built 
																		the Al-Azhar 
																		Mosque 
																		in 970 
																		AD, with 
																		its 
																		myriad 
																		minarets 
																		and 
																		assortment 
																		of 
																		domes. 
																		The 
																		modern 
																		day 
																		mosque 
																		has 
																		evolved 
																		architecturally 
																		over 
																		many 
																		centuries.
																		 
																		But its 
																		purpose 
																		and 
																		status 
																		remain 
																		unchanged 
																		as It is 
																		still 
																		the 
																		epicentre 
																		of study 
																		and 
																		teaching 
																		for 
																		Egypt's 
																		Sunni 
																		Muslims 
																		to this 
																		day. Al-Azhar's 
																		Mosque 
																		is not 
																		just a 
																		religious 
																		school, 
																		it is a 
																		fully 
																		fledged 
																		academic 
																		institution, 
																		the 
																		equivalent 
																		of the 
																		Ancient 
																		Greek 
																		academies 
																		only 
																		older. 
																		Lectures 
																		no 
																		longer 
																		happen 
																		in the 
																		mosque 
																		itself, 
																		but it 
																		is still 
																		the 
																		official 
																		home of 
																		the 
																		university.
																		 
																		
																		  
																		
																		Mohammed 
																		Ali 
																		Mosque 
																		No, not 
																		that 
																		Mohammed 
																		Ali, 
																		this 
																		Mohammed 
																		Ali 
																		ushered 
																		in 
																		Egypt's 
																		modern 
																		age. Now 
																		the 
																		finest 
																		jewel in 
																		Cairo's 
																		fantastic 
																		Citadel 
																		and an 
																		unmissable 
																		part of 
																		the city 
																		skyline, 
																		this is 
																		a modern 
																		mosque, 
																		in 
																		honour 
																		of a 
																		thoroughly 
																		modern 
																		man. 
																		Designed 
																		in the 
																		grand 
																		Ottoman 
																		style by 
																		a Greek 
																		architect, 
																		the 
																		construction 
																		of the 
																		alabaster 
																		began in 
																		1830. It 
																		opened 
																		its 
																		sacred 
																		door 27 
																		years 
																		later. 
																		Its 
																		needle-like 
																		minarets 
																		pierce 
																		the 
																		clouds 
																		at a 
																		dizzying 
																		270 
																		feet. 
																		 
																		
																		 The 
																		Blue 
																		Mosque 
																		(The 
																		Aqsunqur 
																		Mosque) 
																		The Blue 
																		Mosque 
																		gets its 
																		name 
																		from its 
																		most 
																		spectacular 
																		feature, 
																		a blue 
																		mosaic 
																		of 
																		majolica 
																		tiles 
																		that 
																		cover 
																		the 
																		eastern 
																		wall. 
																		The Blue 
																		Mosque 
																		is a 
																		Mamluk 
																		monument, 
																		commissioned 
																		by 
																		Prince 
																		Aqsunqur 
																		al-Nassery 
																		in 1347. 
																		It's 
																		also 
																		renowned 
																		for its 
																		unorthodox 
																		4 storey 
																		minaret, 
																		its 
																		magnificent 
																		marble 
																		mihrab, 
																		and its 
																		vine 
																		leaf and 
																		grape 
																		patterned 
																		Minbar 
																		(pulpit). 
																		 
  
																		  
																		Mosque 
																		of 
																		Sultan 
																		Hassan 
																		Standing 
																		at the 
																		foot of 
																		the 
																		Citadel, 
																		this 
																		building 
																		(1356-1362) 
																		is a 
																		perfect 
																		example 
																		of 
																		Mameluk 
																		architecture 
																		– 
																		austere 
																		and 
																		imposing 
																		outside, 
																		curving 
																		and 
																		spacious 
																		inside. 
																		The 
																		Rifai 
																		Mosque 
																		opposite, 
																		where 
																		kings 
																		Farouk 
																		and 
																		Fouad 
																		and the 
																		Shah of 
																		Iran are 
																		buried, 
																		is 
																		merely a 
																		showy 
																		pastiche 
																		constructed 
																		at the 
																		beginning 
																		of the 
																		twentieth 
																		century.
  |